Capturing the Flavor and Color of Cherries

1. Stone the cherries with a cherry stoner, or by halving them with a knife. Fold about half of the stones in a napkin and rap them sharply with a mallet to expose the kernels, which contain an agreeably bitter flavor. Put the crushed stones, whole stones and cherry stalks into an enameled pan—do not use aluminium or cast iron which would react with the acid fruit and discolor the soup.

2. Flavoring the liquid. Pour in wine, then add sugar, a piece of cinnamon stick and some grated lemon rind. Bring the mixture to the boil and simmer for 5 to 10 minutes to draw the flavors into the wine. Strain the liquid through a nylon sieve, then pour it back into the pan.

3. Assembling. Halve and reserve a few cherries for a garnish. Put the rest to soften in the wine, off the stove. Whisk soured cream until it is smooth, then stir in the cherry mixture.Add lemon juice and salt until the liquid is slightly more tart than the fruit. Cover and chill.

4. Serving. Transfer the soup to a chilled serving bowl and garnish with the cherry halves. Serve in chilled soup plates. With slices of toasted brioche, a semi-sweet bread, or biscuits.